I know, I know....

I didn't finish blogging about China. This note is just to let you know that I do intend to do it, sometime, but I shouldn't do it now because I'm supposed to be studying for 3 tests... although ignoring them is quite tempting. Anyways, I do blog semi-regularly these days on this website: http://www.mitadmissions.org/ , since it's sortof my job now. So, until sometime later, at least a week from now, that'll have to do. Thanks for following the blog!

Kim

Busy, busy, busy...

I'm going to be pretty busy today wrapping things up at the office. Tomorrow will be my last full day in Beijing, and should be nice and relaxing. And then I fly out on Sunday for Boston via New York! I'll post something here when I make it, and then probably keep posting for a while after that, since I haven't had a chance to tell you about some other things I've done recently... like my trip to watch Olympic Soccer in Tianjin. So keep checking back here if you're interested in a few more pictures and stories. The blog will likely wind down by the end of the month, though, since school will be starting again. Thanks for reading!

Meeting Them XII

A dozen thousand minutes of life spent on this trip; what was its worth?

Well, I met Them. Or at least some of Them; a decent size group of Them. Who are They, you ask? They're loosely defined, both verbs and nouns (person, place, thing, quality or idea -- for some reason I remember chanting this definition in a sing-song voice in 6th grade or so) that I encountered in the course of my explorations. I liked some of Them, disliked others. And that is a reasonable reason to travel.

Granted, I already had preconceived notions about many of Them. But meeting Them in new contexts, at greater concentration than previously, on a trip where I had a lot of time for reflection made a difference. I am now more sure of my kanfa (way of seeing things) with respect to some of Them.

I love photography, of nature, of people as they are, of photography. Yes I knew that; as I said, in many cases prior preferences became sharper. My camera is one of the few essentials I carry with me whenever possible. When I went to Hangzhou, I actually didn't have time to return to Carson's flat as intended, so went with only the clothes on my back and my purse. Luckily my purse contained all essentials: tissues (for public bathrooms), money, camera, cell phone, nail file (so handy), pen and small notebook. I think I actually enjoyed the trip more than I would have if I had gone and packed a bunch of other stuff.


I like big grand cities that make people look like ants (how many can you count?) I like mirrors and glass.
I like bubble tea.
Besides that, I love the way this bubble tea was prepared for me. It was so efficient. The bottom plastic cup was filled quickly with all relevant ingredients, either added by machine or from buckets perfectly positioned for the worker's convenience. The worker then covered it with a specially designed cap and shaken, and set in a machine that heat-sealed the top on. A straw popped in and voilà. I wish I had time it. It was cool to watch. As I walked down the street drinking my bubble tea, I noticed a sparse mesh net a guy was using to carry his basketball that was very cool in a similar way.

I like being in nature. I didn't realize how much I had missed it until I was in it again.
Before sidetracking this post into one about how beautiful nature is (and moonlight!), I suppose I could mention some of the things I realized I really don't like.

Unnecessarily Angry Shouting.



This is a periodic reminder not to take up space in this train ticket-buying hall in Xi'an if you're not buying a ticket.

It also reminds me of something I do like though, since it was shortly after that I met the girls who took me in and let me hang out with them. I like people who consider this sort of unusual occurrence as a possible positive outcome of a chance meeting.

Another mode of behavior towards foreigners, which I encountered more than ever before in Xi'an, is high on my list of dislikes. Treating them like exotic but dumb animals in a zoo, to be talked about, stared at, and posed with on a whim.

While I was waiting for a train, sitting and eating my dinner in peace, I gathered a crowd of maybe 20 people, watching.

I was actually in the middle of figuring out my camera situation at Bingmayong, checking memory sticks to see if they worked, when a guy asked for a picture with me. I said, sure, when I've finished with this. Less than a minute later, while I was still clearly trying to work on my camera situation, he reminded me and asked if I was ready for the picture, though I clearly wasn't. I'm still not finished buying this; we can take a picture when I finish I told him. He was annoyed and told me that he'd been waiting, as though I was obligated to take a picture with him in the first place.

Another similarly annoying thing people, especially guys, do is yell "hello" at me, as though this is a very clever thing to say and needs to be said very loudly, either because I'm hard of hearing or others need to be impressed by their impressiveness.

It was odd to me that people should be this way in Xi'an, a large city, but not in Dangjiacun, the tiny town.

Xi'an was also where I realized how extremely uninterested I am in hanging out with people whose hobbies are drinking and/or smoking heavily. Also in pollution and cars with unusable seatbelts.

Such a long chunk of text! Here, have a tree, older than the USA: I should rest. So to wrap up this wrap-up, a final 3 things I enjoy: impromptu traveling, physical exertion, and quail eggs. Though that last is not one of these more-deeply-realized things, but rather a pleasant surprise from a hot-pot place in Xi'an.

Life, The Temple of Heaven

:) Now that I'm nearly finished telling you about July, I can tell you all about August... but not really. Because I've only got a week left and I'm sooo busy. Work has really picked up; I like this.
Once I get a little more sleep in me I'll try to say something summary about my week-long trip. For now I'm going to tell you about going to the Temple of Heaven in Beijing. First I got drawn into the wonderful shopping experience that is Wangfujin. Unfortunately the other Rich Westerners have started to find the place as they arrive for the Olympics, but knowing Chinese is still a plus when it comes to bargaining, as is being a student.
The weather was amazing and people were out enjoying it at the Temple of Heaven. Following a bit of prodding from the woman next to me, I danced too.
See how busy I am? I have no time to rotate this picture for you.
Of all the kids who've had their picture taken with me this summer, this one was the cutest. In case you're interested, second place goes to one of the two girl at the top of the JinMao tower in Shanghai. Also, this area was great. Wandering about, I came upon a group with folding stands making music together. I got there by taking an imperial shortcut that was invented for a 66-year-old emperor.
I suppose this picture is important to include as well. The emperor used to come to this place twice a year to communicate with the gods and make sure good crops were in order. If he wasn't good at this people got kindof annoyed. This is the central temple part, and there are all sorts of other halls around; the music hall, the echo wall, the sacrificing building, etc etc.
The weather today was lovely as well, by the way. And I finally got my Beijing Kaoya. And now I'm going to wrap things up at the office and go rest a bit.

Meeting Them XI

Arriving at BingMaYong, the site of the Terracotta Warriors, the traveler faces an terrible problem. Every stick of memory is full; there will be no pictures here. Unless...! A stand sells memory cards. Buying one, she tests her camera. Which fails to recognize the card. Cards upon cards fail. She requests her money. "No, no! It works in our camera!" What good is that?
Enough. The traveler leaves five minutes later with a spiffier version of her own camera -- including a touchscreen! -- and a receipt that will enable her to regain her bankbook, keys, phone, and passport upon the expensive camera's safe return. What could go wrong?

She hires a guide and speedily gets to poking around History.
Commanders gather in Pit 3 to strategize before riding forth on golden chariots.

A Kneeling Archer from Pit 2, moderately curled shoes indicating a moderate rank:
Everything made to the highest standards, so that the Emperor would have the greatest chance of successful rule in the hereafter. Even bricks were better then; poorly made bricks meant death to their makers.
Zooming out a bit (and moving to the other end of Pit 1) we see the troops.
Duly impressed by BingMaYong, the traveler parts with her guide and exchanges camera for valuables. Apparently nothing could go wrong.

Returning to Xi'an, she is persuaded to take a quick look-see around the city walls,
then picks up her belongings from the room she's been not-staying in for the last couple of nights, and returns to the train station.

Where she eats an ... interesting ... meal and fascinates many rural Chinese travelers with her very (foreign) presence.
The journey ends simply: boarding a train, lifting self and possessions to a top bunk, and falling irresistibly into a deep, deep sleep.

Meeting Them X

Sleeping lightly, waking to readjust the sarong or pull it closer, to shift positions on the rock, to shiver. After a couple of hours the cold is stronger than the the need for further sleep, and the traveler wakes. Shivering, looks around. More people have arrived over the last couple of hours, a surprising number in matching coats. Thick coats. Looking around, she finds the source. A man with a small shack rents them out! Well worth ¥20 ($3) plus deposit. Snuggling into a big warm Russian coat, her head wrapped in a sarong-turned-babushka, she curls into the rock and sleeps once more.

The sky lightens.
A shout! The sun is coming! The traveler wakes. People rush the edge of the cliff, jostle for position. Needlessly. "Calm down, settle back," a man says. It's still half an hour away. Woken by the false alarm, the traveler looks about. A handful of foreigners are among the growing crowd, recently emerged from their lodgings. The light grows.
Slipping under the chain, the traveler gains a spot in front. Sitting between a cyclist from Lithuania and a young Chinese couple, she awaits the sun.

It comes up, fiery red, beyond fiery -- fluorescent red. An unbelievable red. No picture would do it justice, and this one doesn't come close.
The crowd watches the progress of the bright sun through the clouds, tries in vain to capture its image, dissipates.

The sun risen, light spreads over the mountains. The white rock which glowed under the moon is lit by the sunlight. The morning air is crisp.
Leaving East Peak, the traveler now heads towards the highest peak, South Peak, shedding clothing along the way.
Ancient trees balance on the rock.
Upon attaining the South Peak, the traveler is warm once more.
A look down from near South Peak.
There is not much time to enjoy the scenery, if the traveler is to make Bingmayong before leaving Xi'an this evening. She moves quickly, running when paths permit.
Passing many, many chains with locks thick on them like so many barnacles. She flies down the mountain.
From the North Peak, she takes the most direct way down possible. With a cable car to herself, she has a great vantage point from which to appreciate the beautiful mountainsides one last time.

Meeting Them IX

A crowd of Chinese and one American push violently for space on a bus which can only escort half of them to the mountain. An unusually competent bus driver conveys the lucky half towards their destination. As they approach, the air of anticipation grows. When the bus arrives in the town at the mountain's base, the passengers are directed to a store. Inside, a man barks warnings and thwacks a large map with his old radio antenna. On the side, the shop sells gear for the unprepared. The traveler buys a map, a flashlight, spare food, and a cheap backpack.

Many hikers will choose to rest in the shop for several hours, delaying their departure until midnight. With an estimated hiking time of 6 hours to East Peak, they should arrive in time to see the sunrise. The traveler eats a meal of Mapo Doufu, rice and tea and sets off.
Walking through what seems the main street of town, the street sloping steadily upward, the traveler comes along people selling white gloves for ¥1. They look quite useful and are accordingly acquired. She also comes along another flashlight, not as bright as the first but with a head-strap, and bargains it down to ¥10 from ¥15.

How to begin climbing? There's a plaza in the way, and a group of buildings. Perhaps this creature is lost too. He certainly looks distressed.
Heading Up as a rule of thumb works out well. The traveler claims student discount entrance and proceeds as night falls.
Solitude, stars, and a stream. Silence, save for a few insects' hums.
Most foreign tourists have gone up during the day and settled into their relatively expensive rooms on the mountain, planning to wake in time to see the sunrise. Most of those without the means to buy rooms will leave several hours later to tackle the climb as a group. With an elevation of around 2200 meters (higher than the highest peak of the Appalachians), nighttime temperatures dip near to freezing, even in the middle of the summer.

The traveler, cooped up on trains for so long, takes to the paths at high speed. The movement and exertion feels heavenly. When the edge has been taken off the store of pent up energy, she falls in with a group of 3 moving more steadily, young workers from a nearby city on a weekend adventure together. They are good, though easily winded, company. While the four stop together to rest, they explain the meaning of the white gloves. Their primary use is in gaining a better grip on the metal chains used along the stairs. Using these chains becomes more important as the paths become steeper, and enables one to ascend steeper paths. They are also nice to wear as the air cools. Resting stands lining the path at frequent intervals sell increasingly expensive food and drink. The group stops and eats some small round seeds. The traveler makes yet another friend.
Hairy Woman Cave. As it is said that a lady of Qin Dynasty, in order to avoid being buried with the dead escaped to Mount Hua, eat conifers leaf, drank spring water for a long time, grew green hair, so was called as 'Hairy Woman' the rock cave where she dwelled was called as 'Hairy Woman Cave'.
When Chinese part with each other, a polite thing to say is, 慢走, walk slowly. This group uses the phrase a lot, as in 'take it easy.' Eventually the traveler begins to feel cool due to lack of movement. Coming to a fortuitous splitting of the path, the traveler strikes out alone along the steeper option. Moving alone and quickly once more, she climbs upward, eventually coming to The Immortals' Gathering Plain.
She climbs on and on, following the chains up the mountain, using long exposures to try to capture the beauty around. The mountains' sides shine pure white, soft and chalky in the light of the rising moon. The path steepens, moves through rock.
The North Peak is attained. There is a hostel here, but the traveler moves on. The night is young, and there are paths to explore.
Heavenly Queen Palace, Immortality-Pill Making Furnace, Flying Fish Ridge. This last walk in the dark is the loneliest, shared only with spiders and something that howls. A sign cautions that in this place, there is, "no watching while walking. While walking no watching." The traveler stops walking and watches. The drop is impressive. Moving on through dark woods. Five Clouds Peak and Ox Grinding Stone.

While navigating tangled paths, alone in the dark, the traveler is glad of her map. Eventually she returns to something nearer to a main path. A pack of climbers is rushing past, those in back always urging those in front forward. Faster! Go Faster! All tired, none willing to be slowest. The traveler joins in and they sweep up the path. Taking a brief break, the rest pant as she sips from a bottle of water. Then, onward!

Couples' locks and ribbons cover paths' chains and hang down walls. (Only chains in more remote areas such as Flying Fish Ridge and chains along the steep runs are not adorned with these locks.)
In the dark, the adventurous path is missed, and the first of the pack starts up a set of stairs. Then the traveler's headlamp discovers it; holds cut in rock, a path cutting vertically, past vertically. At places the rock bulges out, making the chains on either side essential. They scale the cliff.

The East Peak is not far now, and the distance quickly covered in their exhilaration. There they settle on cold rock, hours before sunrise, to sleep if they can, and wait for the sun and its warmth. Many others have already arrived; it is Friday night, and the destination is popular among Chinese tourists, even if they cannot afford a hotel room at the top. The traveler wears pants over shorts and wraps a sarong around her shoulders. Using her backpack and the remainder of its contents for a pillow, she sleeps.